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Photo Essays Fashion

It started in New York and ended in Paris. There were Burberry checks, nipple pasties and Elton John-inspired tracksuits. Stars were born and supermodels were reunited. We lost industry legends and the big beasts of fashion signed charters pledging to protect models’ health.

Outlandish poses, and attention-grabbing outfits drew scrums of street-style photographers to the entrance of every venue. Canapes were nibbled. Green juice, matcha tea and champagne were drunk, as style journalists, bloggers and buyers travelled to view the world’s top fashion collections and help decide what we will be wearing in six months’ time. Here are the highlights from the past few weeks.

In his second collection for Calvin Klein, Raf Simons opened New York fashion week with a jolt, presenting a terrifying collection inspired by horror films. On the front row, Brooke Shields chatted to Paris Jackson; Moonlight’s Mahershala Ali chatted to Lupita Nyong’o. On the catwalk, shift dresses covered in prints from Andy Warhol’s Death and Disaster series and shoes inspired by Jason Vorhees’s hockey mask in Friday the 13th were particular highlights. Elsewhere in New York, Rihanna cemented her status as a celebrity style supermogul, presenting a surf-inspired collection for Fenty x Puma just days after she launched her own Fenty beauty range.

  • Samantha Elsworth and Kaia Gerber walk for Calvin Klein
  • Designers Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier accept the applause
  • Front row: Ana Wintour and Lupita Nyong’o chatting to Mahershala Ali; Paris Jackson and Brooke Shields
  • Rihanna did a lap on the back of a motorbike at the end of her show. Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid took part in Alexander Wang’s show on the New York city streets

Victoria Beckham showed glittery shoes and pastels in a collection (above and below) which, she said, made a case that “delicacy can mean strength”. Beckhams Brooklyn and David, who sat next to new British Vogue editor Edward Enninful in the front row, seemed to be quite into it.

Twice yearly, Istanbul’s Fashion Week draws a varied crowd—from the religiously conservative to social liberals. Recent trends highlighted versatility, allowing the wearer to tailor designer outfits to conservative tastes. Dresses can be worn over pants, and longer coats make curves less pronounced. Scarves are culled from top designers such as Louis Vuitton and Hermés.

Filling the need for high-end Islamic fashion is Turkish fashion magazine Ala, which the press calls the “Vogue of the veiled.” The magazine’s spreads feature bright colors and modern cuts while still maintaining modesty and Islamic values.

A model shows off a daywear look at a fashion shoot at Bretz Home in Kemerburgaz, Istanbul. Monique Jaques

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The Armine store in Istanbul’s Fatih District. Fatih is known as one of the most conservative districts in the city and hosts many retail stores covering all ends of the market. Monique Jaques

A photographer and the Ala editorial board discuss an image being considered for the cover. Scarves are from a wide range of designers, like domestic Armine and international brands such as Louis Vuitton and Hermés. Monique Jaques

A woman poses during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter in Kurucesme, Istanbul. Monique Jaques

Attendees before the Tuvanam show during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

Attendees before a runway show that was held in the same complex where the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art is located. Monique Jaques

The Fall/Winter adl + CENGİZ show during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

Fashionistas exit after the Tuvanam show, which draws a wide-ranging crowd. Monique Jaques

The Fall/Winter adl + CENGİZ show during Istanbul Fashion Wee Monique Jaques

The Kith & Kin show at S/S during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

Models dress before the Raisa-Vanessa Sason runway show. Monique Jaques

A model returns down the catwalk at the Fall/Winter adl + CENGİZ show during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

Attendees wait for the Tuvanam show to begin during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

Attendees pose in front of a sponsor’s sign during Istanbul Fashion Week. Monique Jaques

After a shoot, shoes are left by a model. Monique Jaques

A model poses in front of historic aqueducts during a fashion shoot for Ala at Bretz Home in Kemerburgaz, Istanbul. Monique Jaques

Editor of Ala Gülsüm Çiçekci helps one of the models walk to the shoot in towering heels. Monique Jaques

The exterior of Armine, a high-end Islamic fashion house that rivals the designs of Hermés in the Middle East. Monique Jaques

A model looks at the image a photographer took of her during a fashion shoot for Ala. Monique Jaques

View more work by Monique Jaques here.